JOURNEY TO JAMAICA'S SOUTHERN COAST: Part III

Isla Beata, DR to Port Morant, Jamaica  (approximately 157 nm)

There is a rocky cay just west of Isla Beata called Cayo de Frailes.  As we approached it, forceful winds whipped around Exit Strategy in every which way.  It was quite an eye opener the first thing in the morning, but we finally made our way safely around the cay and sailed on holding a steadier course toward Jamaica’s southeastern coast. 

That night just after midnight, the windspeed dropped drastically. (I bet you are wondering why so many things happen on Exit Strategy “after midnight”.  I am, too!)  At the change of watch duty, the Captain was filling me in on course adjustments, the winds, and vessels in our path and we heard something hit the deck that sounded like metal.  NOW WHAT???  Using the beam of our flashlight, we discovered that the clip holding the starboard side lazy jack lines had popped free from the mast.  The main was raised at the time, and we knew that it would be a mess to deal with when we took the sail down at daybreak.  We hadn’t flaked (tidied) a mainsail on the boom since we took sailing lessons!

The motor propelled us for the last eighteen hours to Port Morant, our first Jamaican anchorage.  We cut the engine once during that time to listen to the morning Weather Net on the SSB radio.  Then when Danny tried to restart the engine, it stalled repeatedly.  He checked items that those who are familiar with the mechanics of motors know to check and found that the starter battery wasn’t holding a charge.  So he used the house batteries to jump start the engine and that got us on our way again.

It happened to be Ash Wednesday when we arrived in Jamaica and learned that it is a National Holiday.  We expected to be charged an overtime fee when clearing in.  An official from Quarantine (Health) came to inspect the boat and interview us about health issues.  Fortunately for us, the officials from Customs and Immigration chose to keep their holiday free from work and arrived the next day to clear us in without charge. 

Dan fixing the clip to hold up the Lazy Jack lines.

JOURNEY TO JAMAICA'S SOUTHERN COAST: Part II

Cayo de los Muertos, PR to Isla Beata, DR  (approximately 192 nm)

Upon weighing anchor at Cayo de los Muertos, Exit Strategy eased into another pleasant downwind sail with the genoa winged out on the whisker pole.  

The next rest stop of the journey was located at the southwestern coast of the Dominican Republic.  We had spent a quiet day there on a previous trip in the waters of the DR.  It was easy to yellow-flag it (i.e. stop in a foreign country without officially clearing in) there because it is an out of the way, unpopulated bay with good holding in sand. However, about twenty miles from our destination the hours left of daylight were few.  So, we decided to be prudent and cut our travel time short by yellow-flagging it at Isla Beata, DR. 

Isla Beata is a small, lovely island upon which a community of non-English speaking fishermen reside.  The last time we stopped here, mainly due to the language differences, I thought los hombres who came to the boat were going to jail the Captain because they insisted (by gesturing) that Danny go ashore with them while I stayed on the boat. About twenty minutes later, he returned with a bag of fish. (WHEW!)

This time we were prepared and expected los hombres to come aboard. I was ready with a few words in Español, politely conveying “No quieremos pescado, gracias.” (We don’t want fish, thank you.) So, they looked over our boat papers and said/gestured that we could come ashore to walk if we wished.

We were tired after the sail and it was dark by the time we got settled.  Nothing broke during this leg but the Captain did make note of an odd vibration when the motor was engaged.  The next day, he dove under the vessel and removed two loose plates from around the prop that shaken loose and tucked them away on board to reinstall during our next haul out. 

Meanwhile, I took a swim to check the anchor and discovered that it had a fishing trap line wound around it.  There appeared to be no way to raise the anchor without dragging the five traps (some filled with fish) that were strung together on the bottom.  Clearly, we had to free the anchor before leaving.  So, Danny cut each trap free and secured a float to the line using small plastic bottles salvaged from the trash- just like the thousands we’d seen marking traps and lines all along the DR coast.  

Some fishermen also stopped by that day with lobsters.  They were on the small side and relatively inexpensive so we bought enough for two meals.

JOURNEY TO JAMAICA'S SOUTHERN COAST: Part I

Frederiksted, St. Croix- USVI to Cayo de los Muertos- Puerto Rico (approximately 115 nm)

Good bye St. Croix!

There we were onboard sv Exit Strategy making the final preparations to set sail westward toward the one of Puerto Rico's lovely out islands called, Cayo de los Muertos. The IN Reach communication unit was activated, the jacklines were in place along both side decks, the navigation lights were tested, the dinghy was strapped to the foredeck, ready meals and snacks were  tucked into the fridge, diesel cans were filled and secured, the bed was made up in the salon, our foul weather suits and PFDs were handy, our ditch bag and multiple water jugs were filled and positioned near the companionway. Everything seemed to be ready and we were eager to GO.

Before raising the anchor, the first & last mate stood on the side deck to unzip the main's sailbag and was astonished to discover that half of the SSB antenna was swaying in the breeze along the backstay cable!  So, the captain hoisted his mate up the mast and the loose antenna was secured once again using many zip ties. A half hour later we were on our way, sailing at a respectable speed using only the headsail with the wind at our back.

When nightfall came, the navigation lights at the bow would not turn on even after both of the crew reported that they had each tested them.  Therefore, the steaming light was used in order for other vessels to notice us.  Our small dinghy nav light was kept in the cockpit to utilize if another vessel was spotted in the vicinity. Around midnight while the captain was on watch, he raised the main sail and Exit Strategy glided effortlessly over the sea wing-on-wing.  The crew was loving it!

The next day, Cayo de los Muertos was in our sights.  As expected, the anchorage there had only one other boat. When the headsail was taken in, the furler jammed, causing the captain to "storm". We had planned to break up the sail with a restful day along this Puerto Rican gem. But now, the "Fix It" list was growing... get the nav lights to work... adjust the furler...  The captain remedied those problems in no time flat, but then he started fiddling with the wheel at the port helm after noticing that it was making an unusual sound. He soon discovered that one link in the chain was bent and about to break.  Luckily, he remembered where he stashed the old chain he salvaged from the last time it broke and used a section of that to make the repair.     

The mountains of Puerto Rico can be seen from Cayo de los Muertos.

   
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When Was the LAST Time...

...YOU did something for the FIRST time?
                                                                     -John C. Maxwell

Near the end of last season in Bonaire, we became acquainted with an extremely pleasant couple who cruise on their motor yacht ALIZANN.  Suzanne and Marty hosted a traditional Thanksgiving dinner potluck for three American vessels just days before we each went our separate ways.  In readying for the dinner, I noted the thought provoking quote above at the close of Suzanne’s email and it got me thinking.   How often do I –now in my mid sixties- accept the challenge of doing something for the first time?

There have been many opportunities for us to try out new things over recent months.  We sailed up to St. Croix in early December and got quite comfortable in routines with our son Bob’s family who live there.  Lyla had joined the St. Croix Pony Club, so I was happy to spend time with her during lessons and feedings.  But one day Bob coaxed me into doing a trail ride with them through a nearby section of the rainforest that is called the “Monkey Maze”.  I’m not fond of riding unfamiliar horses, but Dusty was gentle with me and wisely refused to pick up a trot or canter when nudged.  I was glad for the opportunity and hope to ride again when we return.

Gardening is one of my all time favorite activities and luckily Bob introduced me to a farmer friend named Luca who was eager for volunteers.  I weeded various veggie beds for the first few weeks and loved it, as we were richly rewarded with luscious veggies and fruits daily.  However, Luca was soon in greater need of helping hands to prepare the harvest for his farm stand.  So he trained me to clean and bag scads and scads of beautiful mixed greens.  I was a little nervous taking part in that responsibility because Luca had an impeccable reputation for high quality harvest, but I was open to learn whatever was necessary and he graciously assured me that he was pleased with my work.  You can imagine how elated I was on my last day of volunteering for the season when Luca said that he wanted me to WEED!  (The pressure was finally off.)

            

                 Bob said he wanted a pic of  me in "my happy place".

A few islands we’ve cruised had bioluminescent bays, but we never took the time to check them out.  St. Croix has one and Bob now lives in a neighborhood that has access to it and his family has gone several times.  The thought of finally having this experience was personally exhilarating, but I was not quite aware of what exactly would be involved in the adventure.  To see the best display of bioluminescence, you have to go well after sunset when it is dark.  So at around 9 o’clock one night, Bob took Aslan, Lyla and me along with three adult friends to an unkempt lot along the bay.  We carried flashlights and Bob lead us through the tall grasses and gingerly around a few thorny cassia bushes to the water’s edge.  It was then that I quietly started to freak out, realizing that we’d be going INTO the water and I wouldn’t be able to SEE the large, creepy things that may be swimming beneath me.  I watched as Bob hung a glowstick on a bush to mark our entry/exit point.  Then he waded in with Lyla and Aslan at his heels.  Oh my gosh, I thought, if THEY went in I HAVE to go in, too. And I did! Playing with the bioluminescence was a delight until someone’s leg briefly touched mine.  When that happened we were quick to reassure each other.  (I believe I will only go into a bioluminescent bay again IF my other two grandchildren want to go someday.)

Photo courtesy of Bing 

Then there was the Cupcake War.  Our four grandchildren are often responsible for challenging us to do new things.  They have prompted us to learn new games like Chess and Skip-Bo or to solve Sudukos.  They have urged us to try rock climbing and gymnastic tricks, learn Spanish online, and climb trees again.  And this year, Lyla challenged me to engage in a Cupcake War with her before we even arrived in St. Croix.  I had no clue as to what it would entail until she showed me a few episodes of the program.  As the date of the baking scrimmage neared, I realized how unprepared I was.  Yes, I’ve been baking for around fifty years, but Lyla set it up as a serious baking-from-scratch competition that would have JUDGES! Of course, they were all close relatives (Dan, Bob, Aslan), but during the three phases of the contest, it was crystal clear that they intended to do their jobs in earnest.  Lyla won our first Cupcake War and intends hold to  another when her cousins Maya and Genna can participate.  (I’m fairly certain that my defeat was sealed when I unknowingly overfilled ice cream cones with batter causing the excess to drip out of the cones and off the pan onto the bottom of the oven, that finally began to burn and smoke up the kitchen.)

 

So, now I challenge you to at least think about it-

                           When was the last time YOU did something for the FIRST TIME?