SEARCHING for the ROAD LESS TRAVELED

The First (& Last) Mate is always on the lookout for coral heads and sandbars
 when entering an unfamiliar cut in the Bahamas

After two and a half weeks in the vicinity of Georgetown, Great Exuma, we had had enough of the cruiser crowds and the constant chatter on the VHF radio, so Exit Strategy headed northward along the chain. Our first stop was at CHILDREN'S BAY CAY, a small, privately owned island.  It was one of those places that you reach eventually after entering a cut (RAT CAY CUT) a few miles before it and then slowly work your vessel through channels that are just deep enough.  As I mentioned before, a major challenge here in the Bahamas has been the shallow depths for our 6'10' draft. The tide changes four times daily and the depth also varies with season. During this visit, the tide difference averages about three feet.  It took about forty minutes to get to Children's Bay Cay and then we anchored with about three and a half feet under our keel.

We anticipated a quiet few days here, but within a half hour a parade of daytripper powerboats began to whizz by us and then return in the opposite direction until nearly dusk.

Notice how the changing tides result in mushroom shaped rocks.  At high tide this is not apparent.

WINDSOCK CAY was a short distance to the west of where Exit Strategy was anchored.  The guidebooks reported, "There is good snorkeling and spearfishing around Windsock Cay." Intrigued by that description, we dinghied over one afternoon. There was a small warm beach there, but it was disappointing to find no obvious areas to snorkel or spearfish.  We considered snorkeling out a ways from the cay, but that would have put us in the path of the daytripper highway.

Windsock Cay looked nice, but was nothing like the guide described.

A couple of days later, we left Children's Bay Cay and retraced our path back out of the cut to resume our exploration of the Exumas.  ADDERLY CUT gave us access to our next recommended uncrowded spot at LEAF CAY.  Lee Stocking Island (different from STOCKING ISLAND near Georgetown) can also be accessed from this cut and was described as being "as popular a stop as Georgetown." So we carefully maneuvered away from Lee Stocking Island and worked our way around a huge shoal to anchor at Leaf Cay, "a peaceful spot near a perfect beach."

However, as we dropped anchor at Leaf Cay, the loud buzz of an engine approached and rattled Exit Strategy with its huge wake. The powerboat slowed and turned toward Leaf Cay just around the point.  We recognized the boat as one of the daytrippers that had inadvertently antagonized us in recent days.  Ah-HA!  Now we knew where they all were going!  

M-m-m- bet he'd make a fine stew!

The next day, we took a ride around the point and discovered that "perfect beach" for ourselves.  About a dozen iguanas lumbered to the shore to welcome us.  I could have caught one easily.  We observed later that the daytrippers bring veggie scraps for the iguanas, so they are quite used to humans. They are called "pink" iguanas because of their coloration.

As annoying as the tour boat traffic was, we could not leave the area without exploring NORMAN'S POND CAY, nor could we deny the tour operators their living.  Norman's Pond Cay was literally a stone's throw across the daytripper highway. Many years ago, it served as a salt producing center, but now only a few ruins are left.  We walked along the rugged western coast and found an exquisite tide pool that led to a cave.   

Our private pool on the Northwest coast of Normans Pond.

Although, our time on board Exit Strategy was sometimes exasperating due to the tour boats, our time off the vessel in these locations was invigorating and certainly memorable.

Sunset over Normand's Pond Cay.