GIVING THE FINGER IN TOBAGO

Having completed a great deal of boat work, we happily left Trinidad, saving many sights of this expansive, industrious island for a future trip. It is November and half of our friends have already sailed north while the balance are remaining a few weeks longer to participate in Trinidad’s annual Divali (Hindu Festival of Lights) celebration. We’ve chosen the path less traveled as we headed for Tobago, Trinidad’s “little sister” island.


Used Beautiful Babe Spit on the lure

Tobago is just northeast of the northeastern end of Trinidad. Cruisers are challenged by this passage for three reasons. First, there is a strong easterly current between the islands; second, the wind often blows hard on the nose from the east in this part of the sea; and third, the Atlantic waves are usually very “lumpy” as they converge between the islands into this relatively narrow passage. Captain Dan has never shrunk when faced with such a challenge and I was on board with him one-hundred percent- literally and figuratively. I’d heard many glowing reviews about Tobago, so my thinking was, Yes, I’d like to see what Tobago is all about as long as we’re this close.  We stocked up on some foods and fuel and the Captain made one last shopping (really- it was a buying) trip to the local chandleries. Then we let customs & immigration know that we were leaving Trinidad to go to Tobago. (The islands ARE the same country, but vessels are required to check in/out when moving from one to the other…an annoying formality!) We spent the next two mornings motoring along Trinidad’s northern coast and over-nighted in Lavache Bay and Grand Riviere Bay. From there we SAILED slightly northeast toward the southeastern tip of Tobago.  We should have left earlier, but it was my birthday and the day had a leisurely start. BIG MISTAKE. It was nearly 3 PM when we arrived and we needed to go ashore to check in with customs/immigration. We waited for a bus at the stop for 25 minutes and none came, although all the while, we noticed some cars would toot their horns and others at the stop would hop into the car and vanish. Finally, we were the only people at the stop and a car tooted at us, so we hopped in. The ride to Scarborough where the customs/immigration office was not long, but the office was closed by the time we arrived. We left quietly frustrated and stood at the appropriate bus stop. The same routine was witnessed with no busses stopping and cars tooting at people at the stop. This time, we noticed the would-be riders stuck out their index finger when a car tooted. Once again, we were left standing alone at the bus stop shelter. Finally, a car tooted at us we gave them the finger and we had a nice chat about Tobago as we rode back to our anchorage.


We don't think this was a real Kmart, just a "knock-off"

Just about EVERY island has at least one of these- so sad.

              Unfortunately, we had to repeat the whole bus trip to customs/immigration this morning to officially check in to Tobago. But this morning we didn’t wait for someone to toot at us- I smiled and proudly stood, giving them the finger. (We made it there and back in record time!)

Stacks of homemade island candy eased our frustration.