Puerto Rico’s Southern Coast

One view of Puerto Rico from one of its gorgeous cays

 
We had friends over the evening before we left Honeymoon Bay.  They innocently inquired if we’d be motor-sailing to Puerto Rico.  We’ve never cruised with them, so they weren’t aware that we prefer to SAIL our sailboat whenever possible.  Well- that innocent exchange must have jinxed us because we had very little wind for the first four days of our trip as we cruised the southern coast of Puerto Rico. Nevertheless, Exit Strategy arrived in Puerto Pastillas without incident to clear in and rest for the night. The Captain phoned in to utilize our LBO (Local Boaters Option) to clear customs, but was politely notified by the agent that our vessel should actually be anchored/moored/berthed in a port where Customs and Immigration were located to properly use the LBO.  The Captain apologized profusely and the agent was forgiving.  (You learn something new everyday.)

View from the lighthouse on Isla Caya de Muertes

 Puerto Rico' mountain range beyond s/v Exit Strategy

      
The next morning in the absence of wind, we motored for our next destination and hooked a tasty king mackerel en route that will provide five or so Lenten meals.  By midday, Exit Strategy was safely anchored off of one of Puerto Rico’s lovely National Parks- Isla Caya de Muertes. There are a number of stories that explain how this unspoiled island got its name and they all have to do with pirates, love, and a coffin.  Currently, the only inhabitants are NP employees who serve as caretakers and overseers of its use, as it gets quite an influx of PR party boaters each weekend and holiday.  We were there during the week and enjoyed its clear,calm waters and shady trails from tip to tip and up to the old lighthouse.  While walking one rocky shore, we found the largest whelks yet.

My brother Marty fashioned some killer lures for us.
(Note the barracuda teeth marks)

Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second largest city, was a short trip just northwest of Isla Caya de Muertes. We had two reasons to stop here. First, we needed to get an official paper dispacho from PR Customs to present to the officials when we’d arrive in the Dominican Republic. Second, the Captain wanted to shop at a marine chandlery that a cruiser friend had touted.  Ponce is very populated, commercial port situated on a huge bay; however much of the bay is unsuitable for anchoring cruising vessels such as ours.  The alternative is to anchor/moor in a small protected bay near the Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club.  We anchored there and dinghied to the Y & F Club dock to learn what we could about the area. What we quickly learned was that we could indeed live without the guest services of the Y & F Club!  The clerk’s eyes gleamed brightly at me as she exclaimed that for only 10$/person/day I could use their laundry, take a bus to shop at the mall, use their showers/restrooms, leave the dinghy at their secured dock, use the gym, or use their restaurant. I knew immediately that my desire to do laundry or shop at the mall was not that significant. We left and found a small unsecured dock at the other end of the bay not far from the boat near restaurants on the boardwalk where we could lock the dinghy and rub elbows a bit with some friendly local fishermen.

Cool custom cleat, wouldn't you agree?

We had no problem finding Customs along the coast in Ponce, but couldn’t find a dock to leave the dinghy.  We finally tied up nearby at the US Coast Guard dock with permission. Getting the despacho paperwork was a relatively simple procedure, but the wait was unusually long- and there was no line in front of us. The official said that it was very good for us to request the despacho because the Dominican Republic officials would have charged us more to clear in without one. 
That afternoon, the Captain set off on his own to hunt for that recommended chandlery, namely Ponce Nautic. He returned about two hours later wagging his head and dripping with sweat- empty handed. It seems that he walked every nearby road that he could find, not once, but twice.  He even stopped to ask a number of people(which is SO out of character for him) and followed their gestured directions with no luck.  I tried to soothe him by suggesting maybe tomorrow…
Later we strolled the boardwalk to find a restaurant for dinner. Along the way we passed a ZUMBA class in full swing! (Perhaps I would have been made aware of that IF I paid my guest fee at the Y & F Club…)  We settled at a restaurant that was packed, figuring that the food must be good.  What we didn’t notice until it was too late was that the crowd all seemed to be Spring Breakers.
[IMPORTANT FOOTNOTE: I have been learning Spanish online through www.Duolingo.com to prepare for this portion of our voyage. I also bought a Spanish-English Dictionary AND downloaded a translation AP on my Tab 3, but keep forgetting to take them ashore.]
So at the restaurant, I told our young waitress that I wanted to practice my Spanish.  She smiled and admitted that her English was not good.  Then I ordered in Espanol and she proceeded to speak ONLY English to me.  She even came back to table several times to ask ME for clarification on the Captain’s order- like HE didn’t speak English.  The food was delicious and worth the wait, but I didn’t get much of a chance for my Spanish to shine as I had hoped.
The next morning, we set off for Day 2 of the search for Ponce Nautic with GPS on Tab 3 in hand and found it a short walk from our anchorage. As it turned out, though, it had nothing in stock that we needed to purchase, except a dry bag for the Tab 3. 

Next we set sail for a small group of cays just Southeast of Guanica, PR and FINALLY experienced some real wind that gusted at times to 22 knots.  It is often called “Gilligan’s Island”, so it is intriguing for our generation. On the charts it is called Cayos de Cana Gorda.   The island is all mangrove with some small paths, and the current is too strong to snorkel on the good side of the adjacent reef. Ferry boats bring resort guests hourly and I would skip it the next time we’re in the vicinity unless we need safe anchorage for the night.
Our last night in Puerto Rico was spent in Bahia de Salinas on the far southwestern coast. This bay is lined with a few resorts on the expansive sandy shore that ends at the rocky point called Punta Rojo.  A beautiful new lighthouse sits on the point to direct mariners away from the dangerous rocks.

Buenos noches, Puerto Rico! Hasta la vista!