CARRIACOU-The Little Sister

Our sail to Carriacou- the lesser known “Little Sister Island” of Grenada- was an easy go. Our vessel, a Bavaria Cruiser 46, is well constructed and designed for blue water sailing. Generally, we’re not in a hurry to get anywhere, but have found that Exit Strategy often cuts through the water at a faster pace than many boats. Along the way, we passed three boats that left the last anchorage before us.
Carriacou had a sleepy feel to it. No cruise ships dock there, but it is a stop on the inter-island ferry route. The people were friendly and the road along the coast begged to be hiked. Well- we did take a local bus to the end of the line at the northeastern point to see how they build their pirogues (wooden boats). But then we walked an estimated 6 miles around the point to the western coast and back in to the main town of Hillsborough. The road was partially paved, yet no vehicles or people passed our way, so we couldn’t have hitched a ride back if we wanted to!   We picked up a National Park mooring at Sandy Island to snorkel and explore. While ashore, a fierce squall suddenly slammed down on us, pelting bits of sand on our bare legs. We took what shelter we could from a few small coconut trees. We had an unobstructed view of a seasoned windjammer ship (s/v Diamante’) drag anchor beyond our vessel. The captain of the ship was kind enough to dinghy us back to our boat when he arrived to rescue his guests, as the current and chop may have been the end of us if we had swam. Tyrell Bay was a short trip around to the south coast of Carriacou. This area was home to a live aboard community, as well as some cruisers who dodge hurricanes for the season, complete with a handful of boat vendors. We wondered if anyone in the vicinity could spell after we encountered several versions of TYRELL on both official and hand painted signs:  TYRREL…TYREL…TYEREL… (Most charts show it as TYRELL BAY.) As a side note, we were told that the actor Morgan Freeman is from Carriacou.  (I wonder how he spells “Tyrell.”)

UNION ISLAND, The Grenadines

Clifton's Waterfront The town of Clifton on Union Island was eerily quiet for a Sunday afternoon. We've found that it is not unusual for businesses to be closed on Sunday mornings, but grocers, restaurants, and bars are routinely open by 1 PM. A man relaxing in the cool shade of a wild almond tree heartily welcomed us to the island and informed us that everyone had gone to attend the funeral of a local custom's agent who recently died in the line of duty. The whole island plus ferry boats full of people from other Grenadine Islands came to mourn the loss of one of their own. Just another example of how small and closely knit is the fabric of the Grenadine Islands. We met Tiger Lilly along the way and started to wander up the deserted streets. A drenching rain began to fall and Captain Dan & I sought shelter in Jennifer's Bar & Restaurant. Lilly & Tom marched on up the hill and smack into the middle of the funeral procession. They slowed their pace and were so taken with the display of sincere communal mourning that they stayed to attend the entire service. The islanders were dressed very formally, yet they warmly encompassed our friends who respectfully joined their funeral procession dressed casually in their usual cruiser attire.* Nurse Shark in tank at resort The anchorage in the bay at Clifton was a little unnerving as vessels have to maneuver between two quite visible reefs and drop a hook in exactly the right place, setting it well in order to ensure it stays put.  We did so and the captain snorkeled on the anchor to be sure.  But the first mate didn’t sleep well at all listening to the constant trade winds and the surf rushing over the coral at our bow and stern.  We stayed there only one night. View from windy mountain top Chatham Bay is tucked into the western coast of Union Island. We spent a few days there after it was recommended to us by our Polish cruiser friends Chris & Gosia, s/v Aldebaran. It is a quiet anchorage with a few restaurants that only open if reservations are made. One day we set out to hike the path indicated in our guidebook. Eldon, a local fisherman, saw us searching and backtracking, so he introduced himself and led us to the trail. The hike was more of a climb over rocks, around barrel cacti, and through a sheep pasture. The view from the top of the mountain was exhilarating and the wind was strong enough to tip us backward onto our heels. And then we met BUSHMAN. Bushman was the caretaker of a Frenchman's farm that was situated at the top of mountain. He said that although the property was privately owned, we were welcome to walk around or picnic there. The farm was the cleanest farm I've ever visited. Bushman seemed thoroughly enthused to tell us all about the animals and gardens. Certainly, our interaction with the local folks are among the most memorable on our travels and liming for a bit with Bushman. Pretty clean, huh?

 

*For Tiger Lilly’s in depth account read http://www.sailblogs.com/member/tigerlilly/

MAYREAU (MY - row)

We learned how to "dress the boat" for festive events...You fly every flag you have! 

The last time we had a specific date to be somewhere while cruising the Caribbean was when we tried to rendezvous with family in St. Kitt's in early March.  You may remember reading that we were delayed four days due to a ripped headsail.  Well, we'd like to think that we've gained more experience sailing in heavier winds since that time, and so we agreed to meet friends in Mayreau at Black Boy & Debbie's Bar for a pigroast on the beach,  graciously hosted by Willie and Mark of s/v Liahona.

s/v Tiger Lilly was "dressier" due to her circumnavigations.

For more details on the fun see Mark & Willie's blog entry:
 http://svliahona.wordpress.com/2012/06/16/piggin-out-in-saltwhistle-bay/

We arrived three days early and were faced with an overcrowded anchorage.  So we dropped the hook with our aft fairly close to a reef that lined the southern shore of Salt Whistle Bay.  Mark encouraged us to move forward and squeeze Exit Strategy's 46 feet amongst the crowd, but we stayed put.  Many of the vessels there were charter boats that left before the BBQ, so we happily moved forward to take a mooring for the night. The pigroast was a grand potluck event in cruiser style with everyone bringing a favorite dish to share and their personal plates & utensils.  (In fact, one can readily tell who is not a cruiser when outsiders show up at a fest, such as this pig roast, and politely ask, "Where are the plates?")

Mayreau is rimmed with gorgeous sandy beaches and ever-clear water. It is another small island of the Grenadine chain, so Lilly & I were able to walk every road in about two hours.  Every turn we took onto a worn path was rewarded by superb views of the neighboring Grenadines.

We always try to attend Sunday Mass if we can find one on the island we're visiting.  While in Mayreau, the Captain & I went to Mass at the smallest Catholic Church yet.  On Saturday, a man at the church told us that Sunday Mass began at 8am... We arrived at 7:45am... The priest arrived and told us that mass began at 8:45am... A duet of bells and a howling dog rang at 8:30am...and Mass finally began around 9am.
(Think "island" time.)

The TOBAGO CAYS

We've begun to feel like these Grenadine Islands are all starting to run together.  It's not just Captain Dan & I that feel this way.  Our friends have been experiencing the same disorientation and contrary to what you may think-  its NOT the RUM. These islands are smaller than many we've explored, so we're covering them at a much quicker pace.  We're relying on our photos help keep us focused.  And now we know why so many cruisers enjoy coming here...

Tiger Lilly wanted us to follow them over to Petit Tabac to anchor behind
 the "World's End Reef"; we declined.

Sea stars near the turtle preserve.



The reef protected anchorage off of Baradel Cay 

CANOUAN

Nick (far right) points out CCA projects on Canouan's northeastern shore
 to Dan and Tom (middle- s/v Tiger Lilly).

There is a good reason why you have probably never heard of anyone vacationing on the Grenadine Island of Canouan. It is a relatively small island whose economy largely depends on being service persons or caretakers of the exclusive residences and resorts hidden in the mountains and valleys on its northern end.  The C.C.A. is an Italian company that manages whatever needs doing on Canouan.  Tiger Lilly just happened to meet the director of maintenance when he offered the extremely hot and sweaty Tom & Lilly a ride back toward town after explaining that they wouldn’t be allowed to the past the guarded gates that lay ahead of them. 

Nick and his wife Jasmine (an interior designer) are Brits who moved to the Caribbean years ago and have had similar employment opportunities in St. Lucia and Mustique. 


Being that Nick is a C.C.A. Director, the next day he was able to take us into the gated community and we hiked Mount Royal. Straddling massive boulders 877 ft. above sea level, we scanned the exclusive development as Nick pointed out various construction projects. As a C.C.A. employee, he was strictly bound by a confidentiality clause concerning the identity of residents and could only say that most have made their fortune in financial sectors from all parts of the world. Later that afternoon, we were treated to a glorious BBQ feast at Nick & Jasmine’s house on the beach.  They made our brief stay in Canouan extra special.

Our group resting on top of Mt. Royal; (L to R) Gosia and Chris of s/v Aldebaran,
Rose and Dan, and Tom of s/v Tiger Lilly.

 

MUSTIQUE

A dazzling school of blue tangs welcomed us to the island of Mustique. Our cruising friends assumed that we were going to this island in hopes of catching a glimpse of one of its many famous residents, such as Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Tommy Hilfiger... but that wasn't our motivation.

A very "ZEN" atmosphere

Mustique is where cruisers need to go to retreat from the monotony of life on board their vessel.  In Mustique, there are NO boat boys, NO boat services, NO chandleries or sail lofts, and NO fuel docks to distract you from sitting back and enjoying life one day at a time.  Mustique offers your choice of long soft sandy shores, select reefs to snorkel and often you are the only ones there.  But IF you come to Mustique- leave your cameras on board to respect the privacy of the many celebrities who have homes on the island.

Exquisitely decorated boutiques

BEQUAI (BECK way)

Ah-h-h, the Grenadines at last!

As we rounded the southern tip of St. Vincent toward its sister island of Bequai, the wind reared its ugly face, gusting and shifting erratically.  A massive cloud hung over the boats in Admiralty Bay where we intended to anchor.  We watched a grey curtain of rain fall down before our bow and put on our foul weather jackets.  Within minutes, the sky turned charcoal-black and we could no longer see the boats in the bay.  Exit Strategy does not have radar yet, so we turned back toward the open sea, switched on the navigation lights, and patiently waited out the storm.  About forty minutes later, the rain let up and visibility was improved enough for us to maneuver the vessel back into Admiralty Bay where we set our the hook along a lovely quiet stretch of beach called Lower Bay.  After all the excitement, I was ready for a nice hot cup of bush tea made by steeping a bruised lime tree leaf in water, as Martin/Providence taught us in Dominica.  For supper we had more comfort food- chicken and dumplings, then off to bed for a good night’s rest.  The following morning rewarded us with a beautifully clear sky.  We found ourselves anchored in water that was so pristine we could easily see our large cooking pot 18 feet below on the bottom that Dan had lost a grip on while rinsing it the evening before.   (He soon retrieved it.) 

The Grenadine Islands are relatively small, but Bequai is the largest. We were surprised that many yacht services were available here and thankful that for once we didn't need any. We wandered around and easily found loads to do as our photos will attest.

Bequai is so small that even the cattle pastures have an ocean view. 

In recent years, bee keeping was revived and produces richly sweet honey.

We saw many "Gracey" dogs here.

We visited the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary and got a tour from Brother King.