TRINIDAD

Micheal, the trailer driver (center), paused to see just how
close ES was to those other yachts.  (It was too close for me to look!)

Funny- in nearly 39 years of marriage we never lived in a gated community until this month when we had Exit Strategy hauled out for some deep maintenance here in Trinidad. We spend 15 days living on the hard in Peake Marina right in front of our best cruising buddies on Tiger Lilly. The marina complex is not only gated, but also has 24-7 security patrols. We figured it would take a maximum of 7 days to complete the task, but once hauled, an initial inspection resulted in the recommendation for sand blasting some spots on the keel, followed by five (yes, 5) coats of epoxy, a coat of primer, and finally two coats of antifouling paint. While on the hard, we had the vessel washed, waxed, and polished. We also had our refrigerator box enlarged, refinished the head seats, laundered all the curtains, plus Dan hoisted me up the mast twice-first to retrieve the windex gauge and then to reinstall it. The sewing machine was pulled out to add length to a dinghy cover a fellow cruiser was recycling and, as long as the machine was set up, some mending was done for both Exit Strategy and Tiger Lilly.  Time passed quickly with most things we needed being easily accessible at reasonable prices from anyone of three chandleries within a short walk. There were many opportunities to also be distracted from our work here, as many other cruising acquaintances planned activities to fill our dance cards.






Captain Dan was transformed to BLUEBEARD as he sanded the bottom.

 




The new Micron 66 antifouling is a stunning shade of blue.

But the longer we were here, the more concerned we became about safety. Lilly and I walked many mornings at 6:30-8:00 to avoid the extreme heat and we felt safe unless we encountered the occasional pack of stray dogs. I carried pepper spray, but never had to use it as the mongrels stopped and retreated whenever we (Lilly mainly) turned to face them and sternly yelled, “NO!” We took one walk part way up a mountain road and intended to walk it all the way on another day, however a Trinidadian resident and  friend of Tiger Lilly’s strongly advised us against it.   






This area is rich with oil.

A Howler Monkey

Once ES was launched, the Captain and I high tailed it for calmer, cleaner waters among the nearby out islands of northwestern Trinidad. We spent two nights in Grand Fond Bay on Monos Island in the company of four other boats, followed by one night in Sanders Bay on Chacachacare Island. The solitude of Chacachacare was a pleasant surprise as we were the only vessel there. However, one can see Venezuela from the anchorage and we had read about incidents of “pirating” over the years. It was a peaceful piece of paradise there, but its history made me nervous, so Dan agreed to lock up the companionway for the first time since we began sailing. That night I had quite a vivid dream about a pirate attack that scared me awake in my dream, and then I really woke up and was about to shake Dan to man our self defense devices when I realized it was only a dream. 

        

 

We’re currently in the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) anchorage just south of Chaguaramas off the mainland. This morning the local news was laden with discussion that focused on the new travel advisory issued for American travelers by the USA for Trinidad! It is customary for a vessel to fly a flag astern to indicate one’s nationality. The Captain removed it this morning without prodding.



Lilly & I were high scorers in Mexican Train Dominoes,
i.e. BIGGEST LOSERS!

The Bamboo Cathedral on the way to Marguaripe Beach.

              
PS for MY FAMILY: PLEASE DO NOT TELL MOM THE DETAILS ABOUT TRINIDAD’S SAFETY STATUS.

SUMMER “CAMP” 2012 IN GRENADA

My dear mother insists that the island is called “Greh- NAH- duh”, but we haven’t heard any of the islanders or cruisers pronounce it that way yet.  It is the island of “Greh- NAE- duh” and it has been our summer “camp” of choice for the 2012 hurricane season. You may have been wondering why I haven’t posted on this blog for so-o-o long.  Check out our weekly “camp” options for activity and you’ll soon understand.  Those coupled with my 2 month trip back to the Midwest for a much needed visit with family and friends has kept me very occupied.

SUNDAY
Weekly:

• Church Bus to Baptist Service
• Hitch ride to Catholic Church
• Mexican Train Dominoes at Secret Harbor Marina 
• Musicians Jam at Whisper Cove Marina
• Beach BBQ at Hog Island

 Monthly : Jumble Sale (Cruisers’ Rummage Sale at Secret Harbor Marina)

MONDAY 
Weekly :

• Yoga Class
• Walk-Hike Group
• Half Price Pizza Night at Prickly Bay

TUESDAY
Weekly :

• Shopping Bus Trip
• Walk-Hike Group
• Mexican Train Dominoes at De Big Fish
• Volleyball at Secret Harbor Marina
• AA Meeting at USG Campus

WEDNESDAY
Weekly:

• Burger Night at Clarks Court Marina
• Walk-Hike Group
• Salad Bar Night at De Big Fish

Monthly : Book Swap at Island Waterworld Chandlery

THURSDAY
Weekly :

• Yoga Class
• Walk-Hike Group
• Volleyball at Secret Harbor Marina
• Cooking Class at True Blue Resort
• AA Meeting at USG Campus
• Movie Night at De Big Fish Restaurant

FRIDAY
Weekly:

• Walk-Hike Group
• Shopping Bus Trip
• Pizza Night & Live Band at Prickly Bay Marina
• Bus to Fish Friday Festival in Gouyave

Monthly: Free Jazz Concert in St. George

SATURDAY
Weekly :

• AA Open Meeting at Secret Harbor Marina
• Cruisers Bus to Read with Children in Mt. Airy
• Shopping Bus Trip to St. George Farmer’s Market
• Bus to HASH event (NOT hashish)
• Potluck Dinner at Clarks Court Bay Marina
• Pizza at Hog Island Beach Bar

Monthly:  Bus to "Taste of Grenada"


FOR UP-TO-DATE LISTINGS, SEE THE GRENADA CRUISERS NET FB PAGE .

CARRIACOU-The Little Sister

Our sail to Carriacou- the lesser known “Little Sister Island” of Grenada- was an easy go. Our vessel, a Bavaria Cruiser 46, is well constructed and designed for blue water sailing. Generally, we’re not in a hurry to get anywhere, but have found that Exit Strategy often cuts through the water at a faster pace than many boats. Along the way, we passed three boats that left the last anchorage before us.
Carriacou had a sleepy feel to it. No cruise ships dock there, but it is a stop on the inter-island ferry route. The people were friendly and the road along the coast begged to be hiked. Well- we did take a local bus to the end of the line at the northeastern point to see how they build their pirogues (wooden boats). But then we walked an estimated 6 miles around the point to the western coast and back in to the main town of Hillsborough. The road was partially paved, yet no vehicles or people passed our way, so we couldn’t have hitched a ride back if we wanted to!   We picked up a National Park mooring at Sandy Island to snorkel and explore. While ashore, a fierce squall suddenly slammed down on us, pelting bits of sand on our bare legs. We took what shelter we could from a few small coconut trees. We had an unobstructed view of a seasoned windjammer ship (s/v Diamante’) drag anchor beyond our vessel. The captain of the ship was kind enough to dinghy us back to our boat when he arrived to rescue his guests, as the current and chop may have been the end of us if we had swam. Tyrell Bay was a short trip around to the south coast of Carriacou. This area was home to a live aboard community, as well as some cruisers who dodge hurricanes for the season, complete with a handful of boat vendors. We wondered if anyone in the vicinity could spell after we encountered several versions of TYRELL on both official and hand painted signs:  TYRREL…TYREL…TYEREL… (Most charts show it as TYRELL BAY.) As a side note, we were told that the actor Morgan Freeman is from Carriacou.  (I wonder how he spells “Tyrell.”)

UNION ISLAND, The Grenadines

Clifton's Waterfront The town of Clifton on Union Island was eerily quiet for a Sunday afternoon. We've found that it is not unusual for businesses to be closed on Sunday mornings, but grocers, restaurants, and bars are routinely open by 1 PM. A man relaxing in the cool shade of a wild almond tree heartily welcomed us to the island and informed us that everyone had gone to attend the funeral of a local custom's agent who recently died in the line of duty. The whole island plus ferry boats full of people from other Grenadine Islands came to mourn the loss of one of their own. Just another example of how small and closely knit is the fabric of the Grenadine Islands. We met Tiger Lilly along the way and started to wander up the deserted streets. A drenching rain began to fall and Captain Dan & I sought shelter in Jennifer's Bar & Restaurant. Lilly & Tom marched on up the hill and smack into the middle of the funeral procession. They slowed their pace and were so taken with the display of sincere communal mourning that they stayed to attend the entire service. The islanders were dressed very formally, yet they warmly encompassed our friends who respectfully joined their funeral procession dressed casually in their usual cruiser attire.* Nurse Shark in tank at resort The anchorage in the bay at Clifton was a little unnerving as vessels have to maneuver between two quite visible reefs and drop a hook in exactly the right place, setting it well in order to ensure it stays put.  We did so and the captain snorkeled on the anchor to be sure.  But the first mate didn’t sleep well at all listening to the constant trade winds and the surf rushing over the coral at our bow and stern.  We stayed there only one night. View from windy mountain top Chatham Bay is tucked into the western coast of Union Island. We spent a few days there after it was recommended to us by our Polish cruiser friends Chris & Gosia, s/v Aldebaran. It is a quiet anchorage with a few restaurants that only open if reservations are made. One day we set out to hike the path indicated in our guidebook. Eldon, a local fisherman, saw us searching and backtracking, so he introduced himself and led us to the trail. The hike was more of a climb over rocks, around barrel cacti, and through a sheep pasture. The view from the top of the mountain was exhilarating and the wind was strong enough to tip us backward onto our heels. And then we met BUSHMAN. Bushman was the caretaker of a Frenchman's farm that was situated at the top of mountain. He said that although the property was privately owned, we were welcome to walk around or picnic there. The farm was the cleanest farm I've ever visited. Bushman seemed thoroughly enthused to tell us all about the animals and gardens. Certainly, our interaction with the local folks are among the most memorable on our travels and liming for a bit with Bushman. Pretty clean, huh?

 

*For Tiger Lilly’s in depth account read http://www.sailblogs.com/member/tigerlilly/

MAYREAU (MY - row)

We learned how to "dress the boat" for festive events...You fly every flag you have! 

The last time we had a specific date to be somewhere while cruising the Caribbean was when we tried to rendezvous with family in St. Kitt's in early March.  You may remember reading that we were delayed four days due to a ripped headsail.  Well, we'd like to think that we've gained more experience sailing in heavier winds since that time, and so we agreed to meet friends in Mayreau at Black Boy & Debbie's Bar for a pigroast on the beach,  graciously hosted by Willie and Mark of s/v Liahona.

s/v Tiger Lilly was "dressier" due to her circumnavigations.

For more details on the fun see Mark & Willie's blog entry:
 http://svliahona.wordpress.com/2012/06/16/piggin-out-in-saltwhistle-bay/

We arrived three days early and were faced with an overcrowded anchorage.  So we dropped the hook with our aft fairly close to a reef that lined the southern shore of Salt Whistle Bay.  Mark encouraged us to move forward and squeeze Exit Strategy's 46 feet amongst the crowd, but we stayed put.  Many of the vessels there were charter boats that left before the BBQ, so we happily moved forward to take a mooring for the night. The pigroast was a grand potluck event in cruiser style with everyone bringing a favorite dish to share and their personal plates & utensils.  (In fact, one can readily tell who is not a cruiser when outsiders show up at a fest, such as this pig roast, and politely ask, "Where are the plates?")

Mayreau is rimmed with gorgeous sandy beaches and ever-clear water. It is another small island of the Grenadine chain, so Lilly & I were able to walk every road in about two hours.  Every turn we took onto a worn path was rewarded by superb views of the neighboring Grenadines.

We always try to attend Sunday Mass if we can find one on the island we're visiting.  While in Mayreau, the Captain & I went to Mass at the smallest Catholic Church yet.  On Saturday, a man at the church told us that Sunday Mass began at 8am... We arrived at 7:45am... The priest arrived and told us that mass began at 8:45am... A duet of bells and a howling dog rang at 8:30am...and Mass finally began around 9am.
(Think "island" time.)

The TOBAGO CAYS

We've begun to feel like these Grenadine Islands are all starting to run together.  It's not just Captain Dan & I that feel this way.  Our friends have been experiencing the same disorientation and contrary to what you may think-  its NOT the RUM. These islands are smaller than many we've explored, so we're covering them at a much quicker pace.  We're relying on our photos help keep us focused.  And now we know why so many cruisers enjoy coming here...

Tiger Lilly wanted us to follow them over to Petit Tabac to anchor behind
 the "World's End Reef"; we declined.

Sea stars near the turtle preserve.



The reef protected anchorage off of Baradel Cay 

CANOUAN

Nick (far right) points out CCA projects on Canouan's northeastern shore
 to Dan and Tom (middle- s/v Tiger Lilly).

There is a good reason why you have probably never heard of anyone vacationing on the Grenadine Island of Canouan. It is a relatively small island whose economy largely depends on being service persons or caretakers of the exclusive residences and resorts hidden in the mountains and valleys on its northern end.  The C.C.A. is an Italian company that manages whatever needs doing on Canouan.  Tiger Lilly just happened to meet the director of maintenance when he offered the extremely hot and sweaty Tom & Lilly a ride back toward town after explaining that they wouldn’t be allowed to the past the guarded gates that lay ahead of them. 

Nick and his wife Jasmine (an interior designer) are Brits who moved to the Caribbean years ago and have had similar employment opportunities in St. Lucia and Mustique. 


Being that Nick is a C.C.A. Director, the next day he was able to take us into the gated community and we hiked Mount Royal. Straddling massive boulders 877 ft. above sea level, we scanned the exclusive development as Nick pointed out various construction projects. As a C.C.A. employee, he was strictly bound by a confidentiality clause concerning the identity of residents and could only say that most have made their fortune in financial sectors from all parts of the world. Later that afternoon, we were treated to a glorious BBQ feast at Nick & Jasmine’s house on the beach.  They made our brief stay in Canouan extra special.

Our group resting on top of Mt. Royal; (L to R) Gosia and Chris of s/v Aldebaran,
Rose and Dan, and Tom of s/v Tiger Lilly.